Fishing Line Online

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I am desperately looking for another product that is similar to this gem from the Magic line. I have tried their new line filler which does not work anywhere near as well as the line smoother. I have a few stockpiled, but I’m still looking. Any help would be most appreciated. Thanks!
Anyone, anyone…….

I don’t know but I do know that when items are discontinued ebay will usually have them.

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I’ve decided to get the Ambassadeur C3, and I’m not sure what brand or test of line would do best. I’ll be fishing for Carp & Channel Cats mostly, but I will occasionally use it Bass fishing with large Jigs & Spinnerbaits. I’ve also decided I want a 7′ medium/heavy action rod to use with the reel. I want a line that is visible, because when fishing for Carp & Channel Cats (and Bass with Jigs or Soft Plastics), a lot of the strikes is when your line gets slack, and goes to the side or straight out. I really like clear/blue fluorescent line. I’d prefer that it not be a Braid.
I do know the clear/blue fluorescent line is highly visible, when I Carolina rig my line, I’m going to use 17-pound fluorocarbon or 12-pound Big Game low-vis green as the leader instead of the blue florescent line.

12lb clear sufix siege. but big game may work okay too.

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What’s the difference? Is fluorocarbon elastic?

Mono has the most "stretch".

Fluro has very little stretch.

And Braid has NO stretch.

What does stretch have to do with hands-on, real-world, fishing?

Plenty!

The advantages of having a no-stretch line are "immediate and better signal transfer" of light biting fish AND much easier striking of fish, (esp with tough mouths).

Fluro has the same refractive index as water making it "virtually" invisible under water.

Fluro does not retain water; causing it to SINK easily.

Mono DOES retain water; causing it to have FLOATING characteristic’s.

Braid does not retain water; causing it to SINK the quickest of the three.

Braid has the longest "life" and requires LESS re-spooling, (saving you money in the long run). Fluro & Mono both "wear out" and need replacing AT LEAST once during a 4 Month period of hard fishing, (maybe even sooner). Braid is UV resistant and is not affected by cold……

Braid has the strongest strength VS diameter. When you see "6/20" on a box of braid it means- this braid has the diameter of 6 LB Mono with the strength of 20LB Mono.

Unfortunately, the abrasion resistance of Braid is not on par with a decent Fluro or Mono. That is why you see many fisherman use Braid as their "main-line" and use Fluro as a leader. However, you’ve got to be a decent knot-tier to use this method……

A "con" to Braid is the fact you MUST "manage" the line every 6-10th cast or you will get "wind knots" due to the super-low diameter of the line.

Another "con" of Braid is it does not work well while trolling- Trolling actually works best with a Mono line- the "stretch" in a Mono line works like a "shock absorber" allowing hard striking fish a "buffer".

A "con" of Fluro is it has a tendency to be a bit stiff and retain memory…….however, there are brands that have less "retention"- usually the more expensive, the better the Fluro.

What does all this info mean?

It can be tough to decide on a line for fishing these days! (lol)

Your going after Pike/Musky so, for you, it’s a "no-brainer". You NEED to use Braid, (when casting).

But if you wanted to switch gears and fish for Bass, you’d have to do some experimenting to decide what type of line "works best for the lure or rig you plan to use" .

I’m fishing a Bass T this Sat and currently have 3 rods with 14LB Fluro, 1 rod with 14 LB Mono, 2 rods with Power Pro 6/20 Braid, and 1 rod with 4/10 Berkley "smoke" Fireline. I have found a mixture works best for Bass fishing……at least for me.

Why?

(It has to do with lure "sink rates".) Remember, Braid & Fluro SINK. Mono sinks very SLOW. Fluro is invisible. Braid is strong.

If you know the properties of the line your fishing and cater to their strong points………….nuff said……..(wink).

Hope this helps? Good luck in your search for the perfect line.

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How do you thread a fishing line through the pole? I have a Shakespeare xtreme that will haul in up to 20 lbs. I plan on going to fish for Salmon (in Alaksa). Also, are there any tricks on how to attach the lure? Any knotting techniques? Can you recommend a website? -Fishing again for the first time

Check out this website:

http://www.takemefishing.org/fishing/fishopedia/how-to-fish

This will give you some good tips as well as show how to do all sorts of knots. The Palomar is the the easiest, and it’s never failed on me. The improved clinch knot is also very popular among anglers.

As far as threading a fishing line, just put it up through the holes. Pull out enough line after it is threaded in order to put your bobber on (if you are using one, I suggest the slip bobber if you are) at the depth you want plus enough line to tie your lure or hook on. Use your preferred knot from the website to tie it on.

Hope this helps. Good Luck.

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I have been trying to look it up online but a lot of descriptions confuse me. Also what pound test line would you recommend I use, I plan to fish in freshwater lakes and ponds.

all you need to do is thread the line through the eyes of the rod, flip the "bale" (the wire wire thing on the reel) and tie a uni knot on the spool,

http://www.in-fisherman.com/magazine/gui…

than get a spool of 14, to10 pound test Sufix Siege (when your reeling the line in, make sure the label of the spool is face up) it’s great line for beginners, it’s coronation and abrasion resistant and has very little amount of memory. after you tie the knot on spool, than you take a sock, or old rag and very very tightly pinch the line between you fingers with one hand and with the other reel in the line making sure you get the line on tight when it looks like the right amount reel about 5 more cranks, than you snip the line with some clippers and squeeze the line if it’s squishy than you need to take the line off to the knot and start over.

“`good fishing“`

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I ran across a couple of videos about Mark White Ceramic Lures from Hawaii that are interesting and worth a look.

White’s Ceramic Lures are made for deep sea, near shore and fresh water and are designed in a variety of shapes and sizes of trolling heads and surface plugs. According to the site, ceramics “cast farther than plastic or wood and have much better action on the surface than metal”.

White’s website Fishing Lures Hawaii gives all the details including how to purchase.

Here is a link to a video from that site on the manufacturing process of these unique lures that are virtually indestructable.

http://www.fishinglureshawaii.com/videos.html

Colorful Surface Plugs

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I’ve found this book interesting and a good overall resource on saltwater fishing.

Good chapters on every method and technique of saltwater fishing: jigging, trolling, fly fishing, surf casting, chumming, etc.

Includes descriptions and best techniques for catching 75 of the most popular game fish found on North American coasts including feeding habits and preferred environments. Good sections on equipment (rods, reels, boats), tying knots and proper techniques for cleaning and cooking your catch.

Saltwater Fishing Made Easy

 

 

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Ever wonder if fluorocarbons should be on your reels? Are they really invisible? Worth the money? No matter what tests are done, certain anglers will always have their favorites and the debate over fluorocarbons is still on. Here is one view-

TackleTour.com, a site that promises 100% independent review, conducted a challenge in June, 2007 that was labeled the Fluorcarbon Showdown Sequel to their March 2007 article regarding fluorocarbons. They tested a number of manufacturers’ fluorocarbon lines for stretch, strain or deformity, visibility and knot-ability. The results are mixed but interesting. Some of the test methods used are iffy- line in a swimming pool to test invisibility- and hey, we aren’t fish and can’t really know what they see- but other tests, such as the stretch tests are easier to understand.

Here are some excerpts with links to the full article (a long one- good for when you are bored at work and need a fishing related diversion):

Perhaps no single review in recent TackleTour history has garnered as much attention and received as much comment as our March 2007 article comparing some of the more popular and well known fluorocarbon lines on the market today. It was our full intent to launch, from that previous article, a series of spinoffs and standalone product reviews, but it was becoming more and more obvious that there were some remaining, nagging issues that required our attention. Like how about our claim that fluorocarbon lines have as much stretch, if not more, than our baseline monofilament; or our use of the Polamar knot to assess knot strength; and how about the whole visibility issue? Yeah, how about all that stuff? Let’s find out!

Stretch II: Rather than take what was left of our supply spools to filling our reels and go fishing, we took them all back to the lab for some additional tests…. The majority of our fluorocarbon lines remained constant throughout but, surprisingly, a small number of them were affected by extended time in the water…READ MORE

Strain or Deformity: Some materials can be placed under a specific, constant load or stress and then, bounce back or recover from that stress once the pressure is relieved. Monofilament is a good example of this. While it might be stretchy if held between your fingers and pulled, once you stop and let go it returns to its original length. Fluorocarbon does not share this ability…READ MORE

Visibility: One of the other nagging issues regarding FC lines is the general claim of their invisibility under water. This has proven to be a difficult claim to test – that is without scuba certification and equipment. The following are some pictures we took in a swimming pool behind the premise that if the lines are invisible, or at best, hard to see in a swimming pool, results should be even more pronounced in a natural body of water where clarity will be considerably less. We rigged up the lines in a holder and marked a small section of each line with a black marker so we could have an idea of where to look for each product…READ MORE

Knots: Finally, the last remaining issue for us with the fluorocarbon lines, before making the decision on which products to really spool up and go fishing with, is what knot or knots to use? In Part I of our Fluorocarbon Showdown, we used the popular palomar knot exclusively. We tested each lines’ strength with this knot and compared it against tested tensile values. What we found was all but one of our test subjects, including our baseline Trilene XL, fell below 90% knot strength when compared to the tested strength of the line. Disappointing to say the least so we’re left to question, was it the line or was it the knot? We hear quite consistently that the palomar is not the best knot to use with FC lines, but we also hear that FC lines have terrible knot strength. So which is it?…READ MORE

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Here is an article that has some good information about night fishing and what line to use from Ezine Articles and author Daniel Eggertsen. He makes some recommendations you may want to try.

The Secret About Night Fishing Line
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Daniel_Eggertsen]Daniel Eggertsen

The Best Type Of Line For Night Fishing

Here is a topic that is often debated between night fishermen.  Depending on how you like to fish at night, here is what you should look for in general:

If you are going to be fishing with a blacklight, you will want to be sure you spool up a clear blue fluorescent line.  The clear blue is especially made to work well with blacklight night fishing, so it is highly recommended.

When you go night fishing, never use a line that is less than 20lb test.  20lb is the minimum weight you should even think about.  You won’t be dealing with those wimpy “day fish”.

Ideally, if you are blacklight fishing, you will want to use the 20lb clear blue fluorescent line.  When the blacklight hits that line, you will be amazed at how well that line shows up.
Of course, if you do not need to watch your line closely (such as when you are using a spinnerbait) then the color is not as important.

Why do you need a minimum of 20lb test line?

Simple, the fish you will be catching at night are going to be bigger!  Sometimes we catch fish twice the size as those we caught during the day at the same spot.

The bigger fish feed at night, so while your buddies are catching the little guys during the day, you can come in and take the ‘monsters’ at night.

Berkley makes a good clear blue line for night fishing.  You should probably get a spool before you plan a night fishing trip.  It is called the Berkley Trilene XT Fluorescent Clear Blue.  You can pick up a pony spool for about $2.50 and a filler spool for under $6.00.

If you are not blacklight fishing, the color is not as important as the strength of the line.  Just make sure it is strong enough to handle the big boys you may come across out there at night.

Daniel Eggertsen is a long time fishermen, as well as President and Founder of   Evening Secret Fishing – ( http://www.eveningsecretfishing.com/specialsecret/night-line.php)

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Daniel_Eggertsen http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Secret-About-Night-Fishing-Line&id=27897

Technorati Tags: Berkley Trilene XT Fluorescent Clear Blue, fishing line, fluorescent fishing line, night fishing, night fishing tips