Fishing Line Online

posted by admin on Aug 10

I need to know some good techniques for fly fishing a lake from shore. It just seems much different techniques than if you were in a river.

First off, look for rising fish.

Common lake hatches are damsel flys for which there are patterns as well as small black midges which can be imitated with a griffith gnat pattern. Sometimes just lobbing out a big attractor pattern such as a stimulator or a royal wulff will attract fish, it helps to give the fly a few twitches and make it "dance" on the water. I use floating flyline for this method.

If there is no action on top I usually use sparsely dressed woolly boogers (no bead head) and soft hackle nymph patterns such as a pheasant tail (obviously) on an intermediate sink tip line.

Cast out and let the line sink occasionally twitching the rod tip.
Retrieve the boogers with slow strips and pause between each. The nymphs I allow to settle and then slowly raise the rod tip and "hand-line" the retrieve, the slower the better.

Good luck and tight lines

posted by admin on Aug 10

i understand some of the characteristics like braid and mono floats, use braid as backing with fluorocarbon leader. im not really sure how to match the lines to the lures though. a list of lures with line(s) used on them would be a big help, a small explanation would be an even bigger help.

Monofilament is a limp line with low to moderate spool memory and average diameter as compared to its breaking strength. It has a considerable amount of stretch to it and does not transmit bottom contact and light bites as well as fluorocarbon. Monofilament has good abrasion resistance and knot strength with fairly low visibility. It casts easily and tends to float. Copolymer lines have properties similar to mono but are usually thicker and have better abrasion resistance. Fluorocarbon is not as limp as mono. It tends to be moderately to extremely "springy", which can lead to loops and tangles, especially on spinning reels. Although, fluoro is nearly invisible, has signifiantly lower stretch than mono, and transmits light bites and bottom contact extremely well. It sinks also and has a higher abrasion resistance than monofilament, but has about the same diameter/breaking strength ratio. Braid has an extremely small diameter compared to its breaking strength. It has no stretch and is extremly limp. Braid is pretty prone to knotting and backlashing during a cast and has the highest visibility of any line. It floats and is extremely abrasion resistant.

Bottom baits, flourocarbon’s extremely low visibity, superior abrasion resistance ad enhanced ability to transmit bottom contact and light bites make it a good choice. Mono is good also.

Crankbaits, fluorocarbon transmits vibrations and bottom contact through the rod better than either monofilament or braid, allowing you to moniter your lure during the retrieve better, also ’cause fluorocarbon sinks, it helps diving lures dive even deeper.

Its fifty-fifty with jerkbaits. Fluorocarbon gets these lures down deeper, a big help is cooler water, but monofilament’s better stretch helps prevent lightly hooked fish from coming off.

Monofilament’s better stretch allows bass to engulf spinnerbaits and buzzbaits deeper for better hook sets… a good thing when bass are hitting short.

Heavy mono or copolymer line for big heavy swimbaits, fluorocarbon for smaller swimbaits in clear water.

Fluorocarbon sinks, not allowing the action of surface baits to shine. Braid floats, but the lack of shock-absorbing stretcginess means lightly hooked fish can easily throw the hook. Monofilament has the best blend of castability, flotation and stretchiness for topwater lures.

Braid is the best for frogs. It floats, helping prevent the line from getting entangled in submerged vegetation. Braid’s small diameter makes casting these lures long distances, and high breaking strength means you’ll land more fish hooked in the thicker stuff.