Archive for the ‘fluorocarbon fishing line’ Category

posted by admin on Apr 7

Hello,

I was wondering if it would be a good idea to use a fluorocarbon leader attached to 6lb monofilament fishing line when targeting brown trout? Can i just attach the fluorocarbon leader to the monofilament line using a blood knot? Or should i just fill the spool with all fluorocarbon? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
How long should i make the fluorocarbon leader on the monofilament?

I use a fluorcarbon leader on braid as well as mono. Use a blood knot and you are ready to go.

posted by admin on Apr 1

I have a Quantum Code bait casting reel on a 7 foot rod. I will use this reel for freshwater largemouth bass fishing (topwater, and crank baits) I was wondering which line I should use?
Either 1) Monofilament
2) Fluorocarbon
3) Braid
And if you would, please recommend the brand of the line you’d choose. Thanks.

Depends on the action of the rod. My personal choice would be 15 lb. PowerPro braid, but if the rod has too fast an action, you might be pulling the lures away from the fish when using crankbaits and topwater. Braid has almost no stretch or "give", so when you set the hook, the lure reacts almost immediately unless the rod is soft enough to absorb some of the shock. I like the strength and sensitivity of the braided lines enough that the trade off is worth it to me, I just learned to react with a little lighter touch on cranks and topwater on a fast rod.

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posted by admin on Mar 25

on lake amistad texas

Amistad is usually very clear making line visibility an issue. Also there is lots of underwater brush that wears on your line. Fluorocarbon is very abrasion resistant, has the same refractive index as water making it virtually invisible, and has very little stretch as compared to monofilament. It also sinks making it ideal for crankbaits or any bottom fishing technique where sensitivity is key to landing fish. You also have a good population of huge alligator gar fish there and those toothy critters might just make it all the way to the boat if you hook up with one.

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posted by admin on Mar 23

PRADCO bass fishing pro Jimmy Mason of Rogersville, Alabama explains the properties of fluorocarbon line and how you can use it to better your chances at landing lunker bass.

Duration : 0:2:16

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posted by admin on Mar 19

Monofilament line is less visible in the water than fluorocarbon line. Learn more about the differences of monofilament and fluorocarbon fishing line in this free fishing video from the owner of a fishing tackle store.

Expert: Larry Mastry
Bio: Larry Mastry and his brother Dale own Mastry’s Tackle, a fixture in St. Petersburg, Fla., and together they have a half of a century’s experience in fishing.
Filmmaker: Christopher Rokosz

Duration : 0:1:27

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posted by admin on Mar 19

If i rig one rod with cheap line and one with expensive line. Which one would get the most bite and why? Now im not talking about monofilament or fluorocarbon line. Another thing i heard that fish would only bite if the line looks invisible is that true?

Honestly, it depends on the fish. I’ve seen kids catch sunfish on $1, 30 lb. test white line, and I’ve also seen myself catching 5 trout vs. the guy next to me getting one, fishing similar lures, but mine being tied to a good quality fluoro line (you can’t take the line type out of the equation, because it DOES make a difference). As far as visibility vs. bites, its not really a matter of whether or not the fish can see it as much as it is if the fish really CARES. A hungry bass would hit a hook and worm tied to garden twine, while a native stream trout might get spooked by a near-invisible 2# test fluoro leader, its just the fish.

Like several have said, line quality comes into play in more areas than simply bites. With a good limp, low-memory line, you’ll see fewer birdnests, longer and smoother casts, and less break-offs due to abrasion. Also, low-memory reduces looping, which means alot in terms of hook sets.

Still, you can get a good line for a reasonable price. Steer clear of anything super cheap, and look to spend at least $5-6 for a 300 yd. spool. If the extra few dollars are a deal breaker, you’re probably not really serious about it in the fist place! :-P If you’re worried about spooking the fish, look for a line in low-vis color like brown or dark green.

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posted by admin on Mar 12

What’s the difference? Is fluorocarbon elastic?

Mono has the most "stretch".

Fluro has very little stretch.

And Braid has NO stretch.

What does stretch have to do with hands-on, real-world, fishing?

Plenty!

The advantages of having a no-stretch line are "immediate and better signal transfer" of light biting fish AND much easier striking of fish, (esp with tough mouths).

Fluro has the same refractive index as water making it "virtually" invisible under water.

Fluro does not retain water; causing it to SINK easily.

Mono DOES retain water; causing it to have FLOATING characteristic’s.

Braid does not retain water; causing it to SINK the quickest of the three.

Braid has the longest "life" and requires LESS re-spooling, (saving you money in the long run). Fluro & Mono both "wear out" and need replacing AT LEAST once during a 4 Month period of hard fishing, (maybe even sooner). Braid is UV resistant and is not affected by cold……

Braid has the strongest strength VS diameter. When you see "6/20" on a box of braid it means- this braid has the diameter of 6 LB Mono with the strength of 20LB Mono.

Unfortunately, the abrasion resistance of Braid is not on par with a decent Fluro or Mono. That is why you see many fisherman use Braid as their "main-line" and use Fluro as a leader. However, you’ve got to be a decent knot-tier to use this method……

A "con" to Braid is the fact you MUST "manage" the line every 6-10th cast or you will get "wind knots" due to the super-low diameter of the line.

Another "con" of Braid is it does not work well while trolling- Trolling actually works best with a Mono line- the "stretch" in a Mono line works like a "shock absorber" allowing hard striking fish a "buffer".

A "con" of Fluro is it has a tendency to be a bit stiff and retain memory…….however, there are brands that have less "retention"- usually the more expensive, the better the Fluro.

What does all this info mean?

It can be tough to decide on a line for fishing these days! (lol)

Your going after Pike/Musky so, for you, it’s a "no-brainer". You NEED to use Braid, (when casting).

But if you wanted to switch gears and fish for Bass, you’d have to do some experimenting to decide what type of line "works best for the lure or rig you plan to use" .

I’m fishing a Bass T this Sat and currently have 3 rods with 14LB Fluro, 1 rod with 14 LB Mono, 2 rods with Power Pro 6/20 Braid, and 1 rod with 4/10 Berkley "smoke" Fireline. I have found a mixture works best for Bass fishing……at least for me.

Why?

(It has to do with lure "sink rates".) Remember, Braid & Fluro SINK. Mono sinks very SLOW. Fluro is invisible. Braid is strong.

If you know the properties of the line your fishing and cater to their strong points………….nuff said……..(wink).

Hope this helps? Good luck in your search for the perfect line.

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