Fishing Line Online

I need to know some good techniques for fly fishing a lake from shore. It just seems much different techniques than if you were in a river.

First off, look for rising fish.

Common lake hatches are damsel flys for which there are patterns as well as small black midges which can be imitated with a griffith gnat pattern. Sometimes just lobbing out a big attractor pattern such as a stimulator or a royal wulff will attract fish, it helps to give the fly a few twitches and make it "dance" on the water. I use floating flyline for this method.

If there is no action on top I usually use sparsely dressed woolly boogers (no bead head) and soft hackle nymph patterns such as a pheasant tail (obviously) on an intermediate sink tip line.

Cast out and let the line sink occasionally twitching the rod tip.
Retrieve the boogers with slow strips and pause between each. The nymphs I allow to settle and then slowly raise the rod tip and "hand-line" the retrieve, the slower the better.

Good luck and tight lines

i understand some of the characteristics like braid and mono floats, use braid as backing with fluorocarbon leader. im not really sure how to match the lines to the lures though. a list of lures with line(s) used on them would be a big help, a small explanation would be an even bigger help.

Monofilament is a limp line with low to moderate spool memory and average diameter as compared to its breaking strength. It has a considerable amount of stretch to it and does not transmit bottom contact and light bites as well as fluorocarbon. Monofilament has good abrasion resistance and knot strength with fairly low visibility. It casts easily and tends to float. Copolymer lines have properties similar to mono but are usually thicker and have better abrasion resistance. Fluorocarbon is not as limp as mono. It tends to be moderately to extremely "springy", which can lead to loops and tangles, especially on spinning reels. Although, fluoro is nearly invisible, has signifiantly lower stretch than mono, and transmits light bites and bottom contact extremely well. It sinks also and has a higher abrasion resistance than monofilament, but has about the same diameter/breaking strength ratio. Braid has an extremely small diameter compared to its breaking strength. It has no stretch and is extremly limp. Braid is pretty prone to knotting and backlashing during a cast and has the highest visibility of any line. It floats and is extremely abrasion resistant.

Bottom baits, flourocarbon’s extremely low visibity, superior abrasion resistance ad enhanced ability to transmit bottom contact and light bites make it a good choice. Mono is good also.

Crankbaits, fluorocarbon transmits vibrations and bottom contact through the rod better than either monofilament or braid, allowing you to moniter your lure during the retrieve better, also ’cause fluorocarbon sinks, it helps diving lures dive even deeper.

Its fifty-fifty with jerkbaits. Fluorocarbon gets these lures down deeper, a big help is cooler water, but monofilament’s better stretch helps prevent lightly hooked fish from coming off.

Monofilament’s better stretch allows bass to engulf spinnerbaits and buzzbaits deeper for better hook sets… a good thing when bass are hitting short.

Heavy mono or copolymer line for big heavy swimbaits, fluorocarbon for smaller swimbaits in clear water.

Fluorocarbon sinks, not allowing the action of surface baits to shine. Braid floats, but the lack of shock-absorbing stretcginess means lightly hooked fish can easily throw the hook. Monofilament has the best blend of castability, flotation and stretchiness for topwater lures.

Braid is the best for frogs. It floats, helping prevent the line from getting entangled in submerged vegetation. Braid’s small diameter makes casting these lures long distances, and high breaking strength means you’ll land more fish hooked in the thicker stuff.

Tarpon, Goliath Grouper, Snook, Jewfish, Hammerheads, Bull Sharks and Redfish are all featured in the Chew On This highlight clips.

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Bright sun at High Noon in the middle of the summer, get out a buzzbait and hit the windblown points and weedlines.

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Fly fishing the flats around Beaver Island in upper Lake Michigan with Indigo Guide Service.

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Tony Wood, fisherman and owner of Wild Alaska Salmon and Seafood Co. show how to prepare and cut a Sockye Salmon Fillet, and then prepare a very quick recipe with asparagus and cherry tomatoes. More informations, recipes and products, please visit: www.wildalaskasalmonandseafood.com

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A new edition to the Hybrid family, the Hybrid Hyspin. The Hyspin with its unique cupped blade creates a great vibration that predator fish love to hate and just can’t resist. The first of its kind and highly innovative, the Red Flash ™, is a red flashing blade that provides the appearance of “blood in the water” to create a feeding frenzy. This unique blade flashes a transparent Candy Apple Red finish on one side, and the other it ‘s either bright gold or cold chrome. You’ll have to see this blade in action to believe it. This All-American made Jig Spinner is field tested and guide approved to help you catch more fish. The Hyspin is made of a rust free heavy gage stainless steel with all solid brass and nickel components. That makes the Hyspin strong enough to withstand the rigors of fishing the saltwater boilers to the test of the toughest bull red. This jig spinner is so versatile, by simply varying the size and weight of the jig head you add, you control the depth and speed of the presentation. Fish it in the skinny water or slow roll the great depths. Combine this with your favorite Hybrids Flurry Minnow ™ swimbait and it makes a fantastic addition to your tackle box. Available in color combinations of chrome, heavy 24 Kt. gold plate and the new Red Flash ™.

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Technorati Tags: bass baits, Edge Fishing, Edge Products, fishing, fishing lures, Flurry Minnow, Hyspin, jig spinner, red fish, speckled trout, spotted bay bass, swimbaits, swimtails

I recently bought a fishing rod that I have online used twice. The problem is, the reeling line is really loose and wavy, and I don’t know why. Are all new fishing rods like this, or is this a quality problem? How can I fix this? It’s a Shakespeare fishing rod, if that matters.

It sounds as if the line just hasn’t been spooled under sufficient tension.If you can find somewhere out in the wide open put your reel onto your rod, thread it up, fix the end of the line to something, open the bail arm of the reel and walk backwards letting the line strip off the reel.

When all the line has stripped off ( that is likely to be a couple of hundred yards line) close the bail arm, run the line through the palm of your right hand, grasp the rod with the little finger of the same hand and begin reeling in, applying a bit of resistance to the line as you do so.

You will obviously have to walk back towards where you secured the line as you go. Once you’ve done this I doubt that you’ll need to do it again. The resistance produced by normal use of your reel should keep the spooling reasonably tight. Hope that helps.

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I have no paperwork for either model that instructs you how to change the fishing line. I’ve seen schematics for the model 170 but no instructions for either model. These are the ’60-’70′s vintage reels. Thank you.
Have you try to take the top off because there should be a area in there where line suppose to go but if you have any problem you should just go to a local bait and tackle shop and im pretty sure they would help you or they would even ask if you want line on them and they would gladly put fishing line on your reel for a cheaper price then if you bought a whole 300 YRD line at the store.

Technorati Tags: Abumatic model 120, fishing tackle, how to change fishing line, vintage reels

I am fishing with ultra light. I am thinking of getting this: http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/standard-item.jsp?id=0048964122330a&navCount=8&podId=0048964&parentId=cat600394&masterpathid=&navAction=jump&cmCat=MainCatcat20166-cat20180-cat600394&catalogCode=XK&rid=&parentType=index&indexId=cat600394 4 pounds test. My only confusion is that it says that it is a filler line. Is it ok to use as a leader?

I also have a second question. I realize that I need to use a Fluorocarbon line because I am fishing a Trout which is a very careful fish. What do you guys think if I would use this line as a couple of feet leader, while a 8 pound test braid as a main line? I think it would make it a little more sensitive, as well as stronger and longer casting. Any suggestions? Also if you think you can suggest some other Fluorocarbon line that you think is better (don’t mind the price) then I am going for it. If not then I will stay with this one (green version, since I am fishing in the rivers for the most part).

I use a similar set up for jigging. I use fire line with a mono backing so it does not slip on the spool and about 3 feet of fluorocarbon line. It works great and the braid is super sensitive.

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